Pictures: Rory Barr for Finland Today
On a beautiful Friday afternoon, Marimekko took to the Esplanadi park and proudly paraded their Summer 2017 collection in the warm late May sun. As is typical with Marimekko, they went off and sartorially did their own thing, largely eschewing what the rest of Europe is doing. However, they did give their nod to the new wide-legged trouser that is just on the cusp of mainstream and dabbled in the cult of the 70’s that is sweeping the fashion landscape.
I found that the collection can be divided into two main categories: fluid fabrics and crisp fabrics.
The fluid fabric dresses, which are largely made of viscose or cotton, were a mix of Finnish and Asian aesthetics, with oversized maxi dresses like the Liidokki being very Marimekko heritage while the Vaula dress was essentially a minimalist kimono. Also like most Marimekko dresses, they work for a certain body type. Think very tall, very thin and with a swan neck. While Marimekko offers a wide size range, going up to 3X in certain garments, they often fall short on being able to craft a garment that works on curvilinear frames.
The crisp fabric garments were oversized and again might fit a larger person, someone with model proportions could really only pull off the emphatically large scale. As a stylist once told me, just because it does up, doesn’t mean that it fits.
What I enjoyed the most was their continued foray into leather goods. Block heeled pumps in rich greens and mustard yellows complemented the collection well. The addition of untreated leather onto the tops of their cotton bags instantly adds sophistication, something that their handbag line dearly needed. As carefree as a cotton tote bag is, it isn’t an investment piece.
Marimekko is as Finnish as salmon soup and Alvar Aalto. Their summer 2017 collection, while not groundbreaking, stuck to their tried and true aesthetic and was as whimsical as the land of the midnight sun that created it.